Here’s a link to the “Just Back From” section of the San Francisco Chronicle that features Jim and me in Uglich, Russia.”

Traveler: Laurie McAndish King, Novato

I went because: I wanted to see the magnificent Church of St. Dimitri of the Blood where Ivan the Terrible’s son was murdered in 1591.

Don’t miss: The five-man chorus singing ancient religious music — it’s heavenly.

Don’t bother: The famous Tschaika watches (until recently, the Tschaika clock factory manufactured 5 million timepieces per year) were uninspiring.

Coolest souvenir: Colorful matryoshka stacking dolls and intricately painted lacquer boxes are high quality and reasonably priced.

Worth a splurge: There is absolutely nothing to splurge on in Uglich. Vodka is a necessity.

I wish I’d packed: Warmer gloves.

Other comments: Uglich’s church bell was famously thrown from its tower, its tongue (clapper) was cut out, and it was whipped and banished for sounding Dimitri’s death toll.


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